Rome: The Caesar Shuffle

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare
Colosseum in Rome by Jeff Moriarty

Colosseum in Rome by Jeff Moriarty

The first step in the Caesar Shuffle is the Colosseum. I had seen pictures of the site on TV as early as February and I was not expecting to be “Wowed”. I figured the pictures and guide books only showed the good side and the rest would be tumbled down. I was mistaken and I couldn’t be more delighted to be wrong. The arches high overhead that mark the entrances to the building were magnificent. They really give you a sense of how 50,000 people could be moved in and out for an afternoon of games and entertainment. You can see how designs of current sports arenas were influenced by Roman ingenuity.

Step two is Palatine Hill. The birthplace of Rome tells the tale of Romulus and Remus of Augustus and Julius. Part of the House of Augustus tour gives you access to three rooms that have been restored with the original frescoes uncovered. The artwork is a vibrant red with tall columns and haunting figures of Romans with only sketches to define their forms. One was rumored to be Augustus’ study. What decisions were made where I am standing that affected 2,000 years of civilization? We stop and ponder over a picnic of olives, cheese and fruit that we brought on our trek.

Step three is the Forum. The layers of history are evident. When we think of history we think in terms of 18th century or in some cases 20th century. Here we are talking about 100 years BC or 2,100 years ago when 1,000,000 Romans inhabited the space where we stood. As facades were built around old temples and Roman architecture others were buried by years of neglect and “progress”. The result is a jumble of ancient sites that overwhelm the senses with a swirl of marble and brick. One particularly poignant site was the Temple of Caesar. A stream of people stopped to pay their respects to a man that crossed a river, ended a republic and altered the face of the Western World.

We had a fantastic time doing the shuffle with Julius and the crew. My impression of how ancient Roman men and women lived has changed. I thought they were simple people who were led around by whatever idol was handy and ritual was popular. I found that they were as vicious as any present day politician and I would not want to meet them in a dark alley.

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Italian Women

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

I have a new found respect for Italian women (minus one – I’ll explain in a minute) for two reasons:

  1. Cobblestones meet high heels. Italian women do not let the cobblestones of Rome deter them from their right to wear fashionable footwear. All sizes and shapes of heals are the rage here with high-heeled boots winning the popular vote. The streets of Rome consist of paving stones about three inches square. Often, there are gaps as traffic wears away the sand between the stones. This does not stop Italian women from strutting their stuff.
  2. Scooters. Italian women have special considerations with their hair and wardrobe. You never know when a cute Italian boy will offer you a ride on his scooter. Somehow, the women here manage to have great hair post-helmet and manage the miniest of skirts gracefully.

Now, to the minus one… I was entering Piazza Navona after a trip to the hotel room and was presented with a woman who asked everyone passing in the opposite direction a question in Italian that I translated to be a request for money. She wore a white blond wig with bright pink bangs. Given her appearance and questionable mental state, I was hanging back and giving her space. It became necessary for me to pass her and thank goodness I gave her a wide berth as she tried to spit on me.

One does not ruin the image of sophistication and funky fashion that is the Italian woman for me.

(Note: This is Dannie’s take. Jeff’s take on Italian women will have to wait a bit…)

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

In Search of a Snorgle

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

One thing you know I had to have noticed is dogs in Italy. When dogs are such a big part of daily routine, it is hard to be away for any length of time without experiencing pooch withdrawal. You begin to look for furry surrogates to pet and you can usually work up to the occasional snorgle. Here in Italy, the snorgle has been elusive and even pets do not seem to be encouraged. So far, I have only experienced one pet that turned into a half snorgle with a French Bulldog outside of a restaurant. I don’t know his name and we have never seen each other again.

There are many breeds here in Italy. Smaller dogs seem to be the norm. We have seen quite a few Pugs, Poodles and Dachshunds. We saw a pug with long hair like a Pomeranian. On the larger side, we have seen one Dalmatian, a Golden Retriever and an Afghan Hound. Curiously we have only seen one Italian Greyhound.

There is no grass in Rome unless you go much farther afield. The dogs here learn to do their business on the cobblestones of the city. Despite that, the streets are kept quite clean due to diligent dog owners who follow along with bags at the ready. Dogs being slaves to their instincts, they still try to bury the evidence by scratching the cobblestones. Perhaps I could offer to pick up after a dog in exchange for a snorgle.

In Naples, stray dogs of all types roam the city. One particularly tenacious pair was staked out at the food court in the train station. Looking for scraps of food, they barked and snapped if you tried to move past them without the proper offering of a morsel. In Pompeii, stray dogs were given the run of the ruins. You would think that stray dogs would be the perfect quick snorgle. They don’t get a lot of affection and there are no owners to be concerned if you approach their precious Gigi with outstretched hands. This is not the case. We think the dogs in Pompeii had recently been fed because all of them were stretched out in a patch of sun sleeping. One in particular who looked a little like Monty with similar markings was sleeping in the flower bed at the entrance. It was difficult not to wake him to see if he was friendly.

So, I keep looking for a sympathetic owner who will recognize the tell tale soft liquid look of a fellow dog lover in distress and let me have a pity snorgle with their furry friend.

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Rome Trip: Visiting the dead in Pompeii

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Our fourth day we woke (very) early and caught the express train from Rome down to Naples. We thought we might snooze on the way but ended up in a compartment with fairly talkative Americans. George and his friend “Sid” (Some Italian Dude) were both from New Jersey. George had been backpacking around Europe for several months, and Sid had come over for a few weeks to see Italy and meet some distant cousins of his in Naples. We talked about Italy (all liked it), which country was the friendliest to tourists (Germany), whether Americans were actually rude tourists or if we just got associated with our country (both), and where the Statue of Liberty is really located (New Jersey).

From Naples we caught a commuter train down to the ruins of Pompeii. We got seriously confused trying to buy a ticket for the commuter train, but Dannie made friends with a homeless, toothless man who insisted, no, demanded that he help us. After defacing our travel guide and yelling at us, we ditched him and found the long walkway down to the commuter train. It was here that we jumped on entirely the wrong train.

Realizing we were screwed shortly after the doors closed, some very helpful locals who spoke very little English helped us figure out how to get back on track. There were some stressful minutes on a very nasty, dirty station in the middle of nowhere, but it all worked out.

I’ve always been fascinated by ancient things, so Pompeii was basically a must-stop for us. I knew a lot about the history, but was surprised at how large the excavation was or how much they let you wander around. We picked up a free booklet and set out for three hours of wandering the bumpy cobblestones.

After the size, the biggest surprise for me was how little had changed in 2,000 years. The streets were a grid, with major thoroughfares, side streets, one ways, and pedestrian walkways. There were sidewalks. Little houses and apartments butted up against huge homes. Bakeries made bread for street vendors to sell. Fast food shops (McPompeii’s?) lined the major streets where people could grab a quick bite and get back to work.

Strangely it was the streets that made the place real for me. Every day Pompeii flooded the streets to wash them clean throughout the city. So across the end of each street they put large stones that were the height of the sidewalk and shorter than the width of a chariot. That way pedestrians could walk across when the streets were flooded, and the chariots could drive over the top. To the side of each of these stones were ruts dugs into the hard cobbles by the chariot wheels. It was such a little thing, yet so practical and real that it somehow made it all hit home more than the crumbling walls and pillars. Twenty thousand people.

Many of the buildings were in amazing shape, with the images still clearly visible on the wall. The Pompeii citizenry was much less hung up on the topic of sex than we are today. One building had a large picture of Priapus, weighing his… asset… on a scale. It was a blessing of fertility and prosperity. The brothel had pictures on the walls of many different sexual positions, possibly for use as a menu for customers.

Pompeii is home to a large number of stray dogs. Friendly and pretty darned cute (if a little scruffy) they snoozed in the shade and gardens of ancient homes. Crowds going by didn’t disturb them in the least until they got hungry.

We caught the train back to Naples with no wrong turns this time, and took some time to poke around Naples near the train station. Similar to Rome but a little grittier, maybe on a future trip we can spend more time. We rolled into Rome about 9:00pm (Dannie slept most of the way), and tried some more wine and another Cuban cigar until we basically passed out. Another good day.

(We’re adding to our photoset each day here)

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Rome: Coffee and Smoking

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

I love coffee in Italy. I’m a light coffee drinker, and enjoy a good espresso from time to time, but more often favor sweeter drinks like lattes and mochas. I try to frequent independent coffee shops, but Starbuck’s is fine in a pinch.

In Rome coffee shops are little bars. You pay the cashier for what you want (cafe espresso, capuccino, etc), then take the ticket to the bar. The barista takes the ticket and whips out a saucer and spoon. A few moments later your drink appears. Drink it up then make way for the next customer. The barista does nothing but make coffee, and never has to handle the dirty money and keep washing his hands.

And the coffee is just so very good. I’ve had one bitter shot the whole time I’ve been here, and even tiny little places make better shots than I get anywhere in Arizona. The cappucinos are my favorite, with a light foam that’s worlds different from the heavy stuff I’m used to. On the funny side, I’m obviously enough of an American that they keep assuming I want “cafe americano” or “American coffee” and I have to clearly ask for the espresso.

I wish we had places like this in the US. Maybe in large malls or some place you could get lots of walk-up traffic to help it catch on. I’d go out of my way for coffee like this regularly, and I am sure others would, too.

I’m also fascinated by how people smoke cigarettes here. First, it seems like everyone smokes. Babies smoke. Dogs smoke. Most of the statues smoke. The difference is many of them smoke as an accessory rather than just for a fix. I’ve seen both men and women chain smoking to keep themselves hopping, but I also see many people light a cigarette and just wave it around for emphasis and punctuation, barely taking a puff or two. Women seem to do this more than men, and I’ve found that as much as I dislike cigarettes they can actually make it quite sexy. Freudian metaphor at work on my subconscious? Maybe, but it still connects. I just wish it wasn’t so stinky. Or so fatal. But other than that it’s pretty cool.

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Rome Day 3: St Peter’s and the Dome

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

St. Peter’s Basilica; Yeah it’s a church… I especially liked the comparison of the largest churches in Europe laid out with markers on the floor showing how much larger St. Peter’s is by comparison. It’s the proverbial pissing match of Christendom. Seriously though, there is no other way to really grasp size and scope of St. Peter’s Basilica. Six acres of dead popes, giant statues, shiny carvings, and glittery relics. We were stunned beyond words. I had to remind Jeff to take pictures. At one point, we were trying to get a picture of the papal altar with the bronze canopy and we had to keep backing up to get the whole thing in.

Yes, there were more dead popes around. I’m really curious how many bodies are in this place, including, of course, the supposed remains of Saint Peter himself. You can see the glowing hole that leads down to his burial area, but it isn’t open to the public.

No less impressive than the whole rest of the building is La Pieta to the right of the entrace. One of Michaelangelo’s masterpieces (I think even the stains on his dinner napkins were heralded as masterpieces, but this one is legit) it rests behind bulletproof glass after a fool smashed at it with a hammer in the 70s. How anyone can pull something so beautiful from a block of marble completely escapes me. Amazing.

I don’t care which religion you are or what you believe, you really must see St Peters if you are in Rome.

Then we got the brilliant idea to climb to the top of the dome of St Peters. You take a lift to the bottom of the dome where you get an amazing view of the inside of the church below. Then you climb the staircase of doom to get to the very top. It starts out narrow and steep, then gets narrower and steeper. Then you think “Holy crap, this is the narrowest and steepest thing I’ve ever climbed,” and it gets narrower and steeper. At one point it is so narrow you have to lean on the curvature of the dome to keep walking – the whole hallways leans in. Then it goes up a winding staircase where only your toes can fit on each step, and you have to hold a vertical rope to keep yourself balanced.

The view at the top is astounding. You want to enjoy it as long as possible for the sheer grandeur, and to postpone having to do the stair thing in reverse. Fortunately there are separate stairs doing down (just as tiny) that prevents traffic jams. As we went down a small boy was shrieking in terror as his parents tried to tell him he had to go down the stairs again to get out. He is probably still up there judging from his take on things.

This also turned our already wobbily legs into tapioca. Painful, shrapnel filled tapioca. I bought a knee brace to help my aching right knee, and Dannie made odd grunting sounds every time we came to a step.

We went to a wine bar to medicate ourselves, and by a seriously bizarre coincidence the owner has a good friend in Phoenix who ran an Italian restaurant. The place is Marcellino Ristorante at 1301 East Northern Ave, which we’re going to have to try when we get back into town.

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Pictures from Rome

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Finally got the Flickr upload to work, so our pictures are showing up at http://www.flickr.com/photos/moriartys/sets/72157607419883044/ if you want to see them.¬† They are also linked from the front page of the blog.¬† We’re trying not to flood anyone with everything we’re taking, just some of the more interesting ones.

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Rome Day 2: We’re Here To See The Pope

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Today we took on theVatican and the many papal interests and intrigues within. We did not have an audience with the Pope. I was surprised as we had Tweeted that we would be there. It was beyond rude… I mean, are these people not connected? You think it’s a coincidence that all 10 commandments are less than 147 characters? We were able to walk to the Vatican from our hotel and crossed the Tiber River over the Bridge of Angels. I guess I will get used to the awe of antiquity that strikes me every time I see something so historic as century-old sculptures. But, I hope I don’t. That theory was tested during our tour through The Vatican Museum and neighboring St. Peter’s Basilica.

During our tour of the Pinacoteca gallery, we learned that an unfinished Leonardo DaVinci work had part of the masterpiece cut out and used as a seat on a stool for a shoemaker. Jeff has tried some pretty crazy DIY projects, but we have never cut up our DaVinci for home furnishings. Here we got our first taste of Rafael with The Transfiguration perhaps made most famous by being his final work.

The Vatican Museum was miles of fascinating history from marble statues salvaged from various Roman ruins to sarcophagi from Thebes. There were histories and theories surrounding each. One of the more interesting was of an emperor obsessed with the Egyptian culture who recreated a ritual at his villa in the country. Part of the plan was to flood part of the estate to simulate the Nile River. The map room was stunning with it’s long hallway of maps of the time. They led to the Rafael rooms with masterworks such as The School of Athens and The Disputa which lined the walls of the Pope’s bedroom. A philosophical moment: The School of Athens seemed displaced amongst the many interpretations of the crucifixion. For an artist of the time to introduce the idea that science could co-exist with religion must have taken courage. To plaster it on the Pope’s bedroom wall… took a set of Renaissance stones that you couldn’t carve from granite. We moved on to the Sistene Chapel.

As we moved through the modern art galleries leading up to the Chapel, I can’t help but wonder at the artists displayed. It must have been an honor to get the letter saying your work would be hung in The Vatican Museum. Only to find out you’re right before the Sistene Chapel. To enter the Chapel, you walk down a staircase and the first thing you see is a sea of hundreds of faces. Wall to wall looking up with their mouths open. The second thing you see is a floor to ceiling marvel called The Last Judgment. To call it a mural does not do it justice. In fact anyone caught calling it a mural is immediately judged. A few years ago, I completed a jigsaw puzzle of the Sistene Chapel ceiling. It was over 6 feet long and 4 feet wide and took a little over two years to complete. I thought that was hard. When you see the Sistene Chapel in person, you are added to the ocean of faces who are struck by the shear magnitude of the accomplishment. I was expecting not to be able to see The Creation of Adam or David and Goliath. The colors are so vibrant, you can see details from where you stand. You see expressions and you sense movement. It is the essence of creation and you are left pondering what you’ve done lately.

If you ever wondered where The Vatican keeps it’s old Popes, look no further than the grottoes. They kept them all. We didn’t realize this at the start of our visit, but these guys are everywhere. Under the basilica, in every niche of the basilica, you can even buy some of the lesser known popes in the vending machines. One of the most popular and moving was the simple white stone where John Paul II rests. Perhaps that is because of the impression that he left on me and the world. Perhaps it is because it made me think about legacies and staying true to your beliefs even after you are gone from the earth.

(To be Popetinued…)

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

Dear Italy, there IS A FREAKING INTERNET!

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

I just have to rant on how hard it is to get on the Internet over here.¬† It’s nuts. You can pay tons of cash for phone access, but we’ve put on miles… sorry, kilometers… trying to find a place with a WiFi zone. Many are broken, or only have terminals. We finally found a small “cafe” we can use, so hopefully we can catch up on posting…

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

It wasn’t this tough for Ceasar, I swear…

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare

We’re headed to Italy for a little over a week, and I may need a separate suitcase just for all the freaking power cables and connectors. iPhone, Kindle, netbook, camera, and I don’t know all what else. It looks like a gangly plastic squid died on our kitchen table as I sort it all out to pack. And it’s not just the different amps for each one, they make universal adapters for that, but it’s all the custom end connectors for each toy.

I could charge them all (in theory) over USB from my Netbook, but I haven’t had it long enough to know how well that really works. So 4 miles of cables are going with us across the Rubicon.

I’m also using this as an experiment to see how I can blog about my trip WHILE I’m tripping. I mean traveling, not tripping. Anyway, I think I have Flickr set up for the images, which should be appearing on the front page of the blog. I also am going to turn back on the Twitter Tools feature to add my tweets into a blog post each day, so even if I only get a few tweets off each day they will get posted. Then there is the email-to-post feature in WP I’ve enabled, should I want to do a full post with the limited bandwidth I’ll have. Part of the challenge is not wanting a $3,000 iPhone bill when I get home. I’ll have a roaming package but it will be as sparse as I can possibly use it.

So if you want to follow along with our adventure, this is the place to watch…. in theory.

One school of thought might be I’m making this too complicated, and I think I’ve attended that school, but it’s kind of fun sorting all the silly stuff out.

It’s the geek in me.  It’s what I do.

FacebookStumbleUponRedditInstapaperShare